The Times Australia
The Times World News

.
The Times Real Estate

.

The magnificent history of the maligned and misunderstood fruitcake

  • Written by Jeffrey Miller, Associate Professor of Hospitality Management, Colorado State University
The magnificent history of the maligned and misunderstood fruitcake

Nothing says Christmas quite like a fruitcake – or, at the very least, a fruitcake joke.

A quip[1] attributed to former “Tonight Show” host Johnny Carson has it that “There is only one fruitcake in the entire world, and people keep sending it to each other.”

It’s certainly earned its reputation for longevity.

Two friends from Iowa have been exchanging the same fruitcake since the late 1950s[2]. Even older is the fruitcake left behind in Antarctica[3] by the explorer Robert Falcon Scott in 1910. But the honor for the oldest known existing fruitcake goes to one that was baked in 1878[4] when Rutherford B. Hayes was president of the United States.

What’s amazing about these old fruitcakes is that people have tasted them and lived, meaning they are still edible after all these years. The trifecta of sugar, low moisture ingredients and some high-proof spirits make fruitcakes some of the longest-lasting foods in the world[5].

The original energy bar

Fruitcake is an ancient goody, with the oldest versions a sort of energy bar[6] made by the Romans to sustain their soldiers in battle. The Roman fruitcake[7] was a mash of barley, honey, wine and dried fruit, often pomegranate seeds.

What you might recognize as a modern-style fruitcake – a moist, leavened dessert studded with fruits and nuts – was probably first baked in the early Middle Ages in Europe. Cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg were symbols of culinary sophistication[8], and these sweet spices started appearing alongside fruit in many savory dishes – especially breads, but also main courses.

Before long, most cuisines had some sort of fruited breads or cakes that were early versions of the modern fruitcake[9].

Fruitcakes are different in Europe than they are in America. European fruitcakes are more like the medieval fruited bread than the versions made in Great Britain and the United States. The two most common styles[10] of fruitcake in Europe are the stollen and panettone.

A chef holds two halves of a cake.
Panettone is one of the most popular fruitcakes in Europe. Mairo Cinquetti/NurPhoto via Getty Images[11]

British and American versions are much more cakelike. For over-the-top extravagance, honors have to go to a British version[12] that crowns a rich fruitcake with a layer of marzipan icing.

Sweetening the pot

Fruitcakes came to America with the European colonists, and the rising tide of emigration from Britain to New England closely mirrored an influx of cheap sugar[13] from the Caribbean.

Sugar was the key to preserving fruit for use across the seasons. One of the favorite methods of preserving fruit was to “candy” it. Candied fruit[14] – sometimes known as crystallized fruit – is fruit that’s been cut into small pieces, boiled in sugar syrup, tossed in granulated sugar and allowed to dry.

Thanks to this technique, colonists were able to keep fruit from the summer harvest to use in their Christmas confections, and fruitcakes became one of the most popular seasonal desserts.

A dessert with staying power

Fruitcakes were also popular due to their legendary shelf life, which, in an era before mechanical refrigeration, was extremely desirable.

Fruitcake aficionados will tell you that the best fruit cakes are matured – or “seasoned” in fruitcake lingo – for at least three months before they are cut. Seasoning not only improves the flavor of the fruitcake, but it makes it easier to slice.

Seasoning a fruitcake involves brushing your fruitcake periodically with your preferred distilled spirit before wrapping it tightly and letting it sit in a cool, dark place for up to two months. The traditional spirit of choice is brandy, but rum is also popular. In the American South, where fruitcake is extremely popular, bourbon is preferred. A well-seasoned fruitcake will get several spirit baths[15] over the maturation period.

Credit for the fruitcake’s popularity in America should at least partially go to the U.S. Post Office.

The institution of Rural Free Delivery in 1896 and the addition of the Parcel Post service in 1913 caused an explosion of mail-order foods in America[16]. Overnight, once rare delicacies were a mere mail-order envelope away for people anywhere who could afford them.

A cat paws at a fruitcake while a child sleeps.
Some people (and animals) are more enthused by fruitcakes than others. Touring Club Italiano/Marka/Universal Images Group via Getty Images[17]

Given fruitcake’s long shelf life and dense texture, it was a natural for a mail-order food business. America’s two most famous fruitcake companies, Claxton’s [18] of Claxton, Georgia, and Collin Street[19] of Corsicana, Texas, got their start in this heyday of mail-order food. By the early 1900s, U.S. mailrooms were full of the now ubiquitous fruitcake tins[20].

[Over 140,000 readers rely on The Conversation’s newsletters to understand the world. Sign up today[21].]

As late as the 1950s, fruitcakes were a widely esteemed part of the American holiday tradition. A 1953 Los Angeles Times article called fruitcake a “holiday must,” and in 1958, the Christian Science Monitor asked, “What Could Be a Better Gift Than Fruitcake?” But by 1989, a survey by Mastercard[22] found that fruitcake was the least favorite gift of 75% of those polled.

Haters and disrespect aside, fruitcake is still a robust American tradition: The website Serious Eats reports that over 2 million fruitcakes are still sold each year[23].

References

  1. ^ A quip (www.wsj.com)
  2. ^ Two friends from Iowa have been exchanging the same fruitcake since the late 1950s (www.clintonherald.com)
  3. ^ the fruitcake left behind in Antarctica (www.npr.org)
  4. ^ was baked in 1878 (www.detroitnews.com)
  5. ^ some of the longest-lasting foods in the world (news.ncsu.edu)
  6. ^ a sort of energy bar (culinaryagents.com)
  7. ^ The Roman fruitcake (www.palmspringslife.com)
  8. ^ were symbols of culinary sophistication (the-footnote.org)
  9. ^ had some sort of fruited breads or cakes that were early versions of the modern fruitcake (www.smithsonianmag.com)
  10. ^ The two most common styles (blog.relish.com)
  11. ^ Mairo Cinquetti/NurPhoto via Getty Images (www.gettyimages.com)
  12. ^ a British version (www.bbc.co.uk)
  13. ^ an influx of cheap sugar (www.livescience.com)
  14. ^ Candied fruit (www.lacucinaitaliana.com)
  15. ^ will get several spirit baths (www.thespruceeats.com)
  16. ^ caused an explosion of mail-order foods in America (www.sil.si.edu)
  17. ^ Touring Club Italiano/Marka/Universal Images Group via Getty Images (www.gettyimages.com)
  18. ^ Claxton’s (www.claxtonfruitcake.com)
  19. ^ Collin Street (collinstreet.com)
  20. ^ fruitcake tins (laurelleaffarm.com)
  21. ^ Sign up today (memberservices.theconversation.com)
  22. ^ a survey by Mastercard (www.forbes.com)
  23. ^ reports that over 2 million fruitcakes are still sold each year (www.seriouseats.com)

Read more https://theconversation.com/the-magnificent-history-of-the-maligned-and-misunderstood-fruitcake-173201

The Times Features

Best Deals on Home Furniture Online

Key Highlights Discover the best deals on high-quality outdoor furniture online. Transform your outdoor space into a stylish and comfortable oasis. Explore a wide range of d...

Discover the Best Women's Jumpers for Every Season

Key Highlights Explore lightweight jumpers for spring and summer, ensuring breathability and ease. Wrap up warm with cozy wool jumpers for the chilly autumn and winter season...

Uncover the Elegance of Gorgeous Diamond Tennis Necklaces

Key Highlights Diamond tennis necklaces are a timeless piece of jewelry that exudes elegance and sophistication. They feature a continuous line of brilliant-cut diamonds, cre...

Dental Implants vs. Dentures: Which Is Better for You?

When it comes to replacing missing teeth, two of the most common options are dental implants and dentures. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, so choosing between them ...

What Neck Pain Really Means (And Why It’s More Than Just Poor Posture)

Neck pain is often brushed off as something temporary — a tight spot after a long day at the desk or a poor night’s sleep. But when the discomfort keeps returning, it could be a ...

The Work of Gosha Rubchinskiy: Fashion, Culture, and Youth

From Designer to Cultural Architect Gosha Rubchinskiy is not just a fashion designer—he's a cultural force. Born in Moscow in 1984, Rubchinskiy began his career in fashion in t...

Times Magazine

The Essential Guide to Transforming Office Spaces for Maximum Efficiency

Why Office Fitouts MatterA well-designed office can make all the difference in productivity, employee satisfaction, and client impressions. Businesses of all sizes are investing in updated office spaces to create environments that foster collaborat...

The A/B Testing Revolution: How AI Optimized Landing Pages Without Human Input

A/B testing was always integral to the web-based marketing world. Was there a button that converted better? Marketing could pit one against the other and see which option worked better. This was always through human observation, and over time, as d...

Using Countdown Timers in Email: Do They Really Increase Conversions?

In a world that's always on, where marketers are attempting to entice a subscriber and get them to convert on the same screen with one email, the power of urgency is sometimes the essential element needed. One of the most popular ways to create urg...

Types of Software Consultants

In today's technology-driven world, businesses often seek the expertise of software consultants to navigate complex software needs. There are several types of software consultants, including solution architects, project managers, and user experienc...

CWU Assistive Tech Hub is Changing Lives: Win a Free Rollator Walker This Easter!

🌟 Mobility. Independence. Community. All in One. This Easter, the CWU Assistive Tech Hub is pleased to support the Banyule community by giving away a rollator walker. The giveaway will take place during the Macleod Village Easter Egg Hunt & Ma...

"Eternal Nurture" by Cara Barilla: A Timeless Collection of Wisdom and Healing

Renowned Sydney-born author and educator Cara Barilla has released her latest book, Eternal Nurture, a profound collection of inspirational quotes designed to support mindfulness, emotional healing, and personal growth. With a deep commitment to ...

LayBy Shopping