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Discovering the Kimberley in the dry season

  • Written by: The Times

The Gibb River Road is a major attraction in The Kimberley's

Start with a sunset in Broome, follow the Gibb River Road through gorge country and give yourself a few days at El Questro. This is a trip worth taking slowly.

At Cable Beach, the sun sets straight into the Indian Ocean. A few days later, you can be watching the first light find the top of a sandstone escarpment, waiting for the warmth to reach your campsite. Between those two mornings and evenings lies one of Australia’s great road trips.

The Kimberley is a dry-season favourite because so much of the country becomes easier to explore. Roads reopen as the wet recedes, cooler mornings suit gorge walks, and the waterfalls can still be running strongly early in the season. May to October is the broad planning window, with access depending on how the wet season ends and when individual roads, parks and stations reopen.

For a first trip, give yourself 10 to 14 days from Broome to Kununurra. That leaves time for two nights in Broome, several stops along the Gibb and a proper stay at El Questro.

Broome | Start by the ocean

Give Broome a full day before you head inland. Spend the morning in Chinatown, where a look at the town’s pearling history gives you a sense of the people and trades that shaped Broome. Then head out to Gantheaume Point, where red rock meets the blue water. If you want to see the dinosaur tracks, ask the visitor centre about the tides. The original prints are only exposed at sufficiently low tide, and a guided outing can help you find and recognise them.

Save the evening for Cable Beach. Arrive before sunset and walk along the shore while the light is still changing. There’s plenty of time for dinner afterwards. Once you’re on the Gibb, you’ll be thinking about fuel, road conditions and how far you want to drive. Broome is a good place to spend an evening thinking about very little.

The Gibb River Road | Give the gorges their own time

From Broome, head towards Derby and the western end of the Gibb River Road. The Gibb runs about 650 kilometres across the Kimberley, much of it unsealed, and several of the places you’ll want to visit sit down side roads. A short distance on the map can turn into a full day once you’ve driven in, walked the gorge and stopped for lunch.

Start with Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge), where the Lennard River cuts through an ancient limestone reef. Walk beneath the cliffs and look for freshwater crocodiles from a safe distance. Nearby Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) offers a different kind of walk. The creek disappears into a limestone tunnel, and exploring it involves darkness, uneven footing and wading. If it’s open, bring a head torch and follow the park’s advice on conditions. It’s also a place to learn about Jandamarra and Bunuba resistance, a story that gives the landscape meaning beyond the walk itself.

Further east, make time for Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge). Water spills over broad shelves of rock into the gorge, and the view from above is worth the walk even if you choose to stop there. Dulundi (Silent Grove) is a nearby camping option. An overnight stop gives you the chance to walk in the cooler part of the day and spend longer at the gorge.

As you approach the eastern end of the Gibb, the Cockburn Range comes into view around the Pentecost River. The escarpment catches the late light beautifully. If you’re driving through, plan to reach your accommodation in daylight and check the river crossing before you commit to that day’s route.

El Questro | Stay long enough to put the keys down

After several days of gravel and corrugations, El Questro is a good place to stay for two or three nights. You can camp or stay at The Station, book a tented cabin at Emma Gorge, or make the trip a special occasion at The Homestead.

Do the Emma Gorge walk early. The trail gets rocky as it works its way into the gorge, eventually reaching a pool beneath high cliffs. Sit for a while and let your eyes adjust to the shade. After days in bright, open country, it’s striking how cool and enclosed it feels.

Give Zebedee Springs a morning of its own. A short walk brings you to warm pools beneath tall palms. Public access is generally limited to the morning during the season, so check opening times before setting out.

If the thought of driving the whole Gibb is what’s kept you from visiting, you can also approach El Questro from Kununurra. Much of the drive to Emma Gorge from that side is sealed. Access to The Station and other parts of the property varies with road and crossing conditions, so check what’s suitable for your vehicle before booking.

Before you go

For the full Gibb crossing, arrange a high-clearance 4WD and confirm that your hire agreement covers the Gibb and any side roads you plan to take. Check Main Roads WA and park alerts before departure and again along the way. Plan your fuel stops, carry extra drinking water and a suitable spare tyre, and have a way to call for help beyond mobile coverage. At rivers and gorges, follow local crocodile warnings and swim only where and when local authorities or site operators advise it is safe.

The temptation on a Kimberley itinerary is to keep adding stops. Leave a little time unclaimed. A second morning at the same gorge, or an evening at camp when you can watch the escarpment change colour, can be the part of the trip you remember most.

Discovering the Kimberley in the dry sea…

Start with a sunset in Broome, follow the Gibb River Road through gorge country and give yourself a few days at El Questro. This is a trip worth taking slowly. At...